Step Into Italy’s Tarot Garden: A One-of-a-Kind Experience of Art and Enchantment
Reading Time: 3 minutes There’s a Surprise Spot in the Bel Paese where imagination has won over the harsh dictates of reality—The Tarot Garden (Il Giardino dei Tarocchi). The world is full of parks and gardens, so what makes this one so unique? The answer is, quite simply, everything.
I had the pleasure of visiting this garden a few years ago. A dear friend of mine, Eleonora, suggested the idea, having visited the place before and been captivated by it. Located in Capalbio, in the province of Grosseto, this Tuscan attraction is best reached by cab, as the nearest train station is about ten kilometers away. For those who, like us, prefer to enjoy a scenic drive, the garden offers free—although slightly dusty—parking.
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First Impressions
A small queue of visitors, including a few families with children, was waiting to enter. It didn’t take long, though, before I found myself surrounded by a carnival of shapes and colors unlike anything I’d ever seen.
One of the garden’s largest statues greeted us with its gaping mouth and a steady flow of water pouring from it. Perhaps a better term for these creations would be “architectural structures,” as some of the 22 statues in the garden are large enough to walk inside.
The Garden’s Origins
Il Giardino dei Tarocchi is not just a garden but a monumental work of art, born from the genius of Niki de Saint Phalle—a French-American, self-taught artist who devoted approximately 20 years of her life to this visionary project. Interestingly, the idea of the Tarot Garden, which opened its gates in 1998, is said to have come to her in a dream.
Each statue represents a different element of the tarot deck. Because of this, the garden offers more than mere amusement; it provides an opportunity to step directly into the artist’s imagination, a world shaped by her life experiences. There’s a palpable autobiographical element throughout, something you feel with every step taken.
The Statue That Surprised Me the Most
One statue, my personal favorite, is akin to a small house with its internal walls covered entirely in mirrored mosaics. It included a bedroom, too. Observing your own image reflected an endless number of times, lost to an endlessly fragmented matrix, can be somehow overwhelming. It is indeed a distinctive experience that plays around with the perception not only of the material world, but also of your own sense of self.
Why visit?
This hidden Italian gem, arguably the crown achievement of Niki de Saint Phalle, is unparalleled. Its aesthetic is inherently unique, whimsical and often grotesque. Words simply cannot do justice to the statues’ intricate details. And their aura of mystique.
This giardino is not just something to look at. It must be first and foremost experienced. Eleonora and I spent about two hours exploring, but it didn’t feel like enough. Each statue holds layers of meaning that would likely require multiple visits to fully appreciate.
That said, it’s not the easiest place to reach, so careful trip planning is essential. However, if you’re willing to make the journey, the Tarot Garden is a one-of-a-kind experience that you’ll carry with you long after you leave.
